|
Pearly Mandeville |
For me this was the most
surprising of all the mascot trails as it was the part of London I knew least about. The Yellow Trail started at Liverpool Street
Station and toured the East End around
Spitalfields and Brick Lane,
coming back via Leadenhall Market and Lloyds of London. It was the most mascot heavy route we had
visited thus far, with 16 mascots to find in the 3.2km length of the route.
|
Lunch at Spitalfields Market |
It took awhile to find the right
way out of Liverpool Street Station.
This is a station I hadn’t been to for years and my last recollection
was of a not very nice and rather dingy place in the 1980s. It was anything but now, with a light and
airy concourse and the old place looked like it had really been spruced up for
the Olympics and Paralympic Games. We
were in London
this time for an evening trip to the Paralympics and the mascot trails were
very much the hors d’oevres of the day.
|
Christ Church, Spitalfields |
Once we had found our way out of
the station we headed out along Bishopsgate.
It was lunchtime already and the suits from all the surrounding offices
were starting to come out for their Friday lunch. We decided to have some lunch before getting
going too much and so when we had found the first of the mascots (Pearly
Mandeville), our next priority was to find somewhere to sit down. We dropped into Giraffe, a place we had seen
before but not tried. It was pretty
good, with super quick service and a nice ambience. The food was a strange mixture of stuff but
they did us all proud!
|
Spice Wenlock |
Spitalfields Market was a
revelation. I am sure this isn’t a
well-kept secret but we loved taking a look around the market stalls and some
of the stuff on offer was really interesting, even for a hardened non-shopper
like me! Around the market were three
more mascots in quick succession; Victorian (a very colourful one that showed
off some stylised architecture from that era), Spitalfields Market (done up to
show some of the merchandise on offer) and finally a generic Wenlock (yawn).
|
Welcome to Brick Lane |
After browsing some of the stalls
and surrounding shops we headed on our way through the back streets to Brick Lane, the
thoroughfare that has been immortalised in a book of the same name. This is an area that was colonised by people
from the sub-continent of Asia and we passed by Spicy Wenlock at one end of the
street and then Sari Wenlock, two representations depicting the culture of this
corner of London.
|
Dickens Wenlock |
In fact as we wandered along the
street we had slightly regretted the fact that we had already eaten, for the
air was filled with some amazing smells of spice and chargrilling meat. Some of the restaurants had a vast array of
colourful looking sweets and nougats in the windows; all exquisitely and
temptingly laid out. It was all a bit
different from the upmarket cake shops we had seen around Covent
Garden and Picadilly on earlier routes, but equally mouth
watering!
|
Punk Mandeville |
A little further on from Sari
Wenlock the advertised mascot had been changed.
It was billed as Graffiti Mandeville, but what we actually saw was Park
Wenlock. Apparently the original one had
been vandalised, which was a great shame as the odd picture of it suggests that
the original was far more interesting than the late replacement.
|
Paley Upon Pilars |
We turned the corner from Brick Lane into
Whitechapel High Street and it was like we were leaving one world and entering
an entirely different one! Gone were the
tightly packed streets full of shops to be replaced by a huge main road with
lorries, buses and taxis thundering up and down. Apologetically Aldgate East Station had an
entrance at this point too.
|
Cockney Wenlock |
At the corner was the next
Wenlock, the rather classical looking Dickens Wenlock, showing scenes from the
Old Curiosity Shop, one of the famous novels from this most famous of Victorian
novelists. This mascot my vote as the
classiest of all those we saw on all of the trails.
|
Fenchurch Street Station |
Somehow on this trail we had
managed to leave the confines of the City of London.
As we made our way to the next mascot (no.9 – have you been counting?),
we passed the boundary post which welcomed our re-entry into the famous old
city. I don’t know if it was my
imagination but the atmosphere definitely changed from a more working class
feel to one of hard nosed commerce.
Certainly the buildings changed to very well appointed and classic
places that presumably had once been associated with the nearby docks. Many of course were now banks and other
financial institutions rather than the headquarters of shipping companies.
|
Londinium Wenlock |
We came to Punk Mandeville, a nod
to the music movement that had its most famous exponents of the Sex Pistols
from this area. I wonder what Sid
Vicious would make of a funny little mascot celebrating what he did. Interestingly the mascot was a Mandeville
rather than a Wenlock as billed – not sure what happened there? I couldn’t help think that it was a little
bizarre. Along from Punk was Cockney, which
tried to capture some of the attributes of this most famous group of
Londoners. Being a true Cockney requires
a person to have been born within the sound of Bow Bells, and this was
represented within the artwork.
|
Leadenhall Market |
At Aldgate was also a very odd
sight in the shape of an antique looking timber frame of a house on
stilts. Apparently this is an art
installation called Paleys Upon Pilars and is supposed to be a memorial to the
cottage that stood on the top of the Aldgate in which the famous poet Geoffrey
Chaucer lived. Its height is supposed to
signify the Dream Poems that he wrote while living here. It was put here as one of the exhibits in the
London Festival of Architecture and the good news is that it is due to be in
place until the end of 2012 and not just its original three month stint.
|
Leadenhall Market Wenlock |
From here we wandered down Fenchurch Street
and it was clear from the hustle and bustle on this Friday lunchtime that
business was winding down for the week.
The buildings had certainly become bigger and the people in suits more
numerous, suggesting that we were really heading into the heart of the
financial district. Peeping out from one
of the side streets was Fenchurch Street Station, surely the most incognito of
all the London Railway Termini and the only one that does not manage to get its
own Tube Station.
|
Almost Unnoticed |
On the left hand side of our
route was the enormous building officially called 30 St Mary Axe, but known to
the rest of the world as the Gherkin
Building. The design of this place is remarkable and
for a modern building I think it will get the same kind of attention in 100
years time as many Victorian buildings do now.
Against the blue skies and the puffy clouds it looked particularly good.
|
The Gherkin |
Amidst all the hustle and bustle
of this business district the Mayor’s Office had managed to find a small
courtyard off Fenchurch Street
where they had placed the next mascot, Contemplative Mandeville. It is hard to think of a more appropriate
setting for such a theme!
|
Scary Sculpture |
Perhaps the biggest and most
welcome surprise was entering Leadenhall Market. Firstly I had never heard of the market
before and secondly it was the most wonderful Victorian architecture I had
seen. There was an amazing buzz about
the place as everyone was enjoying their lunch hour, either by sitting and
chatting in the open air cafes or browsing the wonderful looking stalls. The two mascots here were very fitting – the
first was Londinium, a mascot dressed as a Roman Soldier to recognise that this
was the original part of London
that was founded in Roman times. The
second was Leadenhall Market Wenlock, possibly my favourite mascot of all the
ones we found on any route. It was
decorated as a facsimile of the market itself and made for a very colourful
statue. I’m sure it sold for a lot of
money – most went for around £10,000. I
would have to make do with pictures.
|
Bishopsgate Wenlock |
We turned out of the market and
headed around the Lloys of London building to find most appropriately Business
Mandeville standing around the back.
Across the road was a pink Mandeville figure, which was supposed to be
Splashy Mandeville. Sadly for us the
original had been changed but a new plaque had not been given. I later found out that this one was called
City Cycling Mandeville, although no explanation had been given as to why it
was replaced. Next to the mascot was a
sculpture of a different kind – I’m not sure what it was but it looked like a
rather sinister Guy Fawkes, its face stripped away to reveal the skull
underneath. We moved on quickly…
|
St Botolph's Church |
After such a cluster of mascots
it was surprising how far we had to walk to the last one on the trail – called
Bishopsgate. On the way we finally
passed right underneath the Gherkin and also a number of building sites for
some equally large glass fronted buildings in various stages of
construction. Walking around this part
of London made
me realise how much the city was changing now that the old buildings are being
replaced by these shiny and gleaming towers.
|
Liverpool Street Station |
Bishopsgate Wenlock didn’t
disappoint. It was outside St Botolph’s Church
and showed a representation of one of the original gates to the City of London. We were now practically outside Liverpool Street Station once again and finished with the
Yellow Route.
I have to hand it to the planners of the
route – it was possibly the most varied and certainly the most surprising of all
the routes. I hadn’t expected such great
sights and atmosphere from this part of London
but it was really buzzing. We enjoyed this
one a lot!
Looks an interesting route. I agree with you about the Gherkin/St Mary Axe building. I'm not a huge fan of modern buildings generally but I do like this one a lot. Also quite like the new Shard building on the other side of the river. Leadenhall market is a lovely place too.
ReplyDeleteThanks for your comment Jon. I enjoyed the Shard too - despite its enormous size it still manages to be a building of delicate beauty. One more London walk before 'normal' service is resumed...
DeleteGlad you enjoyed "my" corner of London so much! It has changed enormously over the last 20 years, when I left there was only one tower at Canary Wharf and the idea of the Olympics coming to the Eastend would have made your average cockney fall off his 'lions lair' ;-)
ReplyDeleteThe rise of docklands has completely changed the area and Liverpool Street began its transformation then. So much diversity within such a small space, the extremes of wealth and culture, are what makes it such an exciting and dynamic part of London. That said, I have no intention of ever living there again!! If you ever want to meet a true cockney, I'll introduce you to my dad - its a 'cultural experience'. :-))
Thanks Erica - my lasting impression from this walk is that the transformation is far from over. There is still so much building going on that the financial district will threaten to engulf the area around Aldgate before too much longer. That would be a great shame for as you say, the 'different' parts of London living cheek by jowl with each other is what makes the city so vibrant and interesting. Although we did the trails to spot the mascots, I found the trails so much more interesting than that and was pleased to have had the excuse to explore London better.
DeleteOne more route to come when I get round to writing it up :)
Hi Paul
ReplyDeleteYou mentioned vandalism of a wenlock - I wondered how long that would take to happen, unfortunately another sign of the times we live in.
As for the 'The Gherkin', I am sorry but it's not for me, I much prefer buildings such as you photographed in Regent Street.
Bill
http://www.walksintameside.co.uk
Hello Bill,
DeleteI heard of surprisingly few stories of vandalism - but a couple were damaged. I think it was easily fixed in both cases, but came with a colour scheme change. I suspect the organisers had a few spares in case.
I think a mixture of old and new makes the city look vibrant. Too many of one at the expense of the other is not healthy. I don;t like the history being overshadowed, but neither to I want the city to look like a museum.
Keep up the good work
Regards
Paul